Nicole's "Athens By Bus" Pictures

Professor Sorogas called this morning to tell me that I wouldn't be having the Documentary class tonight. The Independence Day holiday is officially tomorrow, but government offices close today at 3 p.m. Since my class is at 6 p.m., the building would be closed and we wouldn't have class. I asked whether the students would know this, since no one said anything last time when I said "see you Tuesday." His response was that the students should know: that this occurs every year. If that's the case, then why did he wait until this morning to call and tell me?

Since Kim cut my hair yesterday, she had to get her hair cut today. Walked to a place in our neighborhood and just asked the lady. It turns out she was born in Istanbul, has an aunt and uncle who live in Washington DC and her cousin plans to go to design school in California. Kim got her haircut there and they talked. We didn't know about cost and were pleasantly surprised. Last year in Macerata a haircut cost her 35 Euros. Here it was only 16.

We then took a tram down to Glyfada. It's an area south of us that I saw from the tram when Jim and I went looking for the Blue Parrot on St. Pat's Day. I was really quite amazed by the place. It was a shopping district that looked like it could have been in almost any US suburb, and had a lot of the same shops, too (Tommy Hilfiger, Gant, etc.). What was interesting to me was the fact that there weren't malls, but a number of multi-story galleries opened onto the street. In each, you could find dozens of shops, cafes' etc.

I forgot to tell a story from last Friday's open-air market. Kim was picking up a few items. She stopped to buy onions and only wanted two. The vendor made a big deal that she was buying only two. He held them up in the air, made some loud announcement, laughed and gave them to her. She tried to pay, but he wouldn't let her. Further down the line she tried to get 4 potatoes. She said "four" in Greek, but the vendor figured she wanted 4 kilos (about 9 pounds). Jim was with her, and he sorted through and found the four biggest potatoes you ever saw - probably over a pound each. That pacified the guy - at least he didn't hold them up and laugh.

Now, a word about begging. As in a lot of major cities (not only in Europe), begging is quite prevalent. I've tried categorizing beggars.

There are those who simply sit or stand on the street with a cup. Often they have some disability, but not always.

Similarly there are people who will approach you with their cup for a contribution.

On the tram we are regularly solicited by "musicians," usually playing the accordion. Why is the accordion the instrument of choice for beggars? Their skill level varies significantly, as does their age. They play for a short time, then walk through with a hand out. Once we were on the tram when two different teenage males were playing. One chastised the other. Evidently it's a violation of professional ethics. It doesn't happen often - they appear to have it well coordinated.

Street musicians are less solicitous. They play (guitars, accordions, flute, etc.) with a cup, cap or other receptacle but don't approach you.

In Athens we've seen fewer of the mimes in face paint who dress as statues than we did in Italy, but we have a few. They look for contributions usually from people who want to have their pictures taken with them.

Their venues are fairly predictable. Of course they're positioned outside all churches before and after ceremonies. They also are at the entrance to grocery stores, Metro stations and on any busy street. What I don't understand is how they are able to walk into restaurants and coffee shops and solicit the patrons. I don't understand why the owners wouldn't be more assertive about keeping them out.

Children are used to beg. A father may play accordion while his child walks through the tram with the cup. Mothers will hold their small children while they ask for money. I one time saw a small child (3 or 4) being scolded by his mother because he was up dancing around while the mom wanted him to lie motionless in her lap.

The overwhelming majority of beggars are immigrants.

Today's news story is from the "We really don't have it so bad in the U.S." department. It's titled "University at the Mercy of Thieves" and describes how hundreds of thousands is spent on theft and vandalism at a couple of universities. Mine isn't mentioned, but I was reminded how the projector was missing from my classroom at first, due to the student occupation of the building.

Today's pictures are more from Nicole's "Athens by Bus" series.

The most important news of the day is the Ball State University Women's Basketball team's win over Tennessee in the first round of the NCAA Basketball Championship. It was BSU's first appearance in the tournament, yet they beat a team that has NEVER lost in the first two rounds. It was such a huge upset that The New York Times even had the story. Of course Tennessee got more coverage than the team that won, but at least we got recognized. How ironic that Ball State's second-round game will be against Iowa State. Go Cards!

Jim and Sharon left yesterday morning. I think they enjoyed their week in Greece.

It's going to be a little quiet around here. We've had guests for the last three weeks, and now it's just Kim and me.

Kim and I went to church last night. We had missed the previous two weeks. At the risk of sounding like a religious zealot, I really don't like missing mass and was glad to be back. We got seats near the front, but we were on a side aisle and behind a pillar, so it was like listening to the mass on radio - except for the readings. We had a clear view of that position, but couldn't see the altar. As I said before, a Roman Catholic mass in English is attended by immigrants. Most of them seemed to be Pacific Islanders.

Today was pretty uneventful. I worked on my conference paper and lecture PowerPoints. To let you know just how uneventful it was, the highlight was that Kim gave me a haircut.

Stelios (the department chair) called this evening to tell me that the university would likely close tomorrow afternoon for Independence Day. Wednesday is Independence Day, and in the Wednesday class's syllabus (Comparative Media) I listed it as a holiday - no class. But my Tuesday night class (Documentary) I had expected to meet. Stelios told me to forget it, that there wouldn't be any classes beyond 2 or 3 in the afternoon (my class is at 6). I worry that someone may not get the word and show up for class. I regret not having asked everyone for their e-mail address.

I was surprised that Friday night's protests (that delayed my return home) weren't even mentioned in the English-language paper.

Today's news story: Greeks feel a lot less safe today than they did a year ago. They perceive the crime rate is higher due to some high-profile acts.

Today's pictures are from Nicole's camera, and I'm titling this series "Athens from the Bus." Like many world capitals, Athens has a double-decker sightseeing bus with audio commentary. We rode one in Dublin and would do it again if I only had a few days in a place. Great overview.

On their last full day in Greece, Sharon needed to pick up a couple of specific gifts: icons and a statue (specifically, a Greek god). So, we were on the tram and back to the Plaka. When we arrived downtown the first stop was McDonald's so Jim could get something to eat. But, we didn't sit there - we grabbed it and left. Being the Saturday of the big Gaza remembrance, there was a lot of activity, including signs "US Out of Iraq." Rather than hang around Jim ate from the bag as we walked.

We went in some places and down some streets I hadn't been before. It started raining, so we were ducking in and out of places. They found what they were looking for. Kim, Sharon and I were going to get souvlaki, so I suggested a place where I knew we could sit indoors that wasn't too expensive, little knowing I was taking us in the opposite direction (in the rain). I really wish I were better at navigating my way. After eating we decided we'd head back to the apartment. Of course by the time we got on the tram the sun was out again. That would be the theme for the day.

In the evening we were going to return to the Lebanese restaurant but just as we were going to leave it was raining. So, we decided to call for delivery. I've mentioned before that most every restaurant in Athens offers delivery. So we ordered -- from Pizza Hut. I would never have ordered from there had it been just Kim and me, but I will be the first to admit that I sure enjoyed it. Just the thing for a rainy night (of course by the time the guy arrived about a half hour later, it wasn't raining).

I got a Facebook friend request from one of my Greek students. I regret that I will have to tell him I don't friend current students but will do it after I return to the US. Of course I can't reply until after Apr. 19, since I've given up Facebook for Easter.

By the way, motorcycles here work like they do in Italy. They pass between lanes and at stoplights they pass all the stopped cars and move to the front of the queue.

A couple of brief items I forgot to mention earlier:

The Euro is back up. Back in December, the Euro was at about $1.40. By the time we arrived in early February, it was at $1.28. It went down as low as $1.25 in February. It's currently at $1.36. Not the direction I want to see it go.

Last Thursday we saw several fighter jets fly low over Athens. I wondered if it was related to the Turkish naval exercises in the Aegean, but I was told it was just practice for next week's Independence Day celebrations.

I also forgot to mention that when we went to the Lebanese restaurant, there were two young ladies in there (under 30, we agreed) smoking from a hookah. I couldn't take a pciture. I need to get a lens like my friend Ilija has. It has a mirror and a side hole so you're actually taking a picture at a 90 degree angle from where it looks like you're focusing.

Unfortunately I didn't get a picture, but yesterday morning two women rang our doorbell and one started speaking Greek to me. I apologized that I did not speak Greek, and the second woman started in English. They were Jehovah Witnesses! That has to be a tough gig.


This is the front of the law college. The red flags are communist party flags. The building is a regular location for dissidents of all sorts.


I went down to the Fulbright office in the morning to get my maintenance check. The last time we got money from Fulbright was on Feb. 3, so I went down to collect the check the day it was ready. We're not desperate or anything, but most things here are more expensive, and there are always a few unexpected expenses.


Went back to the apartment and met up with Kim, Sharon and Jim just as they had returned from the weekly open-air market. We knew Sharon would want to get pictures. Jim and Sharon then took off on the tram to eat. They had seen a Pizza Hut along the coast. I needed to leave shortly for class/office hours. I think Kim opted not to go just to give them a little alone time. At least one of us has been with at least one of them most of the week. Had they done the cruise they would have had lots of alone time.


Kim and Mary Jo (from Texas) in front of the Academy.


When I got to the office I saw Stelios who had another copy editing assignment for me, but only if I wanted to do it. I assured him that it was my pleasure. He said that before I leave, he and I ought to collaborate on something, whether we finish it while I'm here or after I return to the US. I tried to encourage him to apply to be a Fulbright visiting professor to the US (preferably Ball State) but got the "so many commitments" explanation. I gave him the website, just in case. I have plenty of US colleagues who don't apply for Fulbright because of commitments: personal, familial or professional. It's too bad.


This warship is parked in the museum area of the marina, near the trireme. I believe it's decommissioned and just for display.


Class last night went well. It's the large lecture, so yes I had to "shush" them a few times but otherwise it was enjoyable. A few students even asked questions. During the break I had a couple come up to me as well. As I left the building there were a few students outside. I said good night (in Greek) and they asked me what they should call me. I had put my name, office hours and e-mail address up on the screen, but I think it may just have been a request about how they were to refer to me. I told them Dom is short for Dominic and that they should call me either. One of the students told me that since they didn't know, they were referring to me as "Indiana Jones." I told them that if they wanted to compare me to Harrison Ford, it was OK with me. Kim says she'll have to get me a hat.

More yachts. I'm just amazed at the money.

I was stymied when I tried to get home. Class ended at 8, so about 8:15 I was looking for a tram. The electronic board at the downtown stop had no arrival times listed and the ticket booth was closed. I called Kim to tell her I'd walk and be late. She suggested I splurge and take a cab. I tried unsuccessfully to waive one down. Finally I was able to talk to a driver who told me that everything was bottled up because of the demonstrations, and that he could take me but would charge me extra. I didn't want to do that and started walking. Then it dawned on me that I could take the Metro (subway) to Piraeus where I could catch a coastal tram home. It was a little longer but would avoid the congested area. I was proud of myself for figuring it out and doing it on my own, but ashamed that it took me so long to think of it. It was nearly 10 when I ended up getting home - about an hour later than usual.

At this point I can't even report the subject of the protests - haven't seen it yet in the paper. May have to wait until Monday (there's no English-language Sunday edition).

The pictures today are mine, and actually coincide with yesterday's activity.

Yesterday started out with a return visit to the Alien Services office. We had to turn in our temporary resident alien permits and receive our permanent seals, placed into our passports. We had arranged to meet Wilf and Mary Jo at the office to go through the process together. It's a bit intimidating when you don't speak the language. We were told to go to one office, had things punched into a computer, given an additional form and told to go to another office. That place had a line out the door but we were told to show our forms and enter, which we did. A woman took our forms and told us "wait here." Later our names were called, they looked at us (to see we matched our pictures) and gave us back our papers, told us to go down the street to make a photocopy and return to the window. When we returned, they put the stickers in the passports and we were finished. Total time was only about 30 minutes, but very interesting. A man from Pakistan who was sitting next to me told me we were treated with respect because we spoke English, and that others are not treated as well. No idea whether it's true, but that was his perception.

The building above is the National Library, which we walked by. Near the university.

The four of us headed off to a lunch place that had been recommended to Wilf and Mary Jo. It was called "Eat It," and everything is made fresh daily (sandwiches, salads, etc). Whatever is unsold at the end of the day is donated to a local soup kitchen.

We were to meet Jim and Sharon in the main square to head back home. In the square we found a number of tents and tables set up and signs saying "Remember Gaza." Given the US position in the middle-east, we thought it best to keep a low profile and not be recognized as Americans.

I'm not even sure if I've posted a picture of Jim and Sharon yet. Taken on the tram.

After a requisite rest period, Kim, Sharon and I headed for the marina. The museum was closed but from outside the fence I was able to take a picture of the trireme. My friend Jim (not the one visiting - the Classicist from Ball State) told me about the boat before I saw it. This is an accurate full-size replica of what they believe was built about 480 BC. It's rather amazing for several reasons and I encourage you to click the link if you're interested. We noted the hours and Kim and I plan to return, at which time I'll provide more pictures with detail.

The trireme is the naval miracle of antiquity, but the marina had the yachts that amaze me. To say those boats cost more than my house is an understatement. It probably costs more to operate one of those boats for a year than the cost of my house. They have to each have crews of 4 or more. I saw one that had a lifeboat with a 150 HP Mercury outboard motor. That's more boat than we ever had going skiing in Florida, and they use it for a lifeboat! This time we seemed to happen on a lot more boats of British registry: not sure whether it's because it's a month later, or we were walking in the "UK Neighborhood" of the marina, or what.

Once the sun set and we had no more picture opportunities we headed back to the apartment to meet Jim and head out to dinner. Last month I had been told about a Lebanese restaurant that Kim and I had yet to visit. Sharon was excited at the prospect so we decided to go. We knew it was south of us, not far from a tram stop, and we had an address. Fortunately Jim and Sharon had brought their GPS, so we were able to use it to find the place. When we arrived shortly after 8, the place had just open for dinner so we were the first ones, but by the time we left there were several other diners. Kim, Sharon and I shared filafel (sp?), grilled chicken, lamb, beef and pork while Jim just sat and drank water (he doesn't eat much from what he knows and is comfortable with). We enjoyed it and left quite full.

I'm finding it easier to do the blog in the early morning while Jim and Sharon are here. In the evenings everyone wants to be online and it takes too much time to write this and upload all the photos. Not that you care about such a minor detail, but it explains why I'm talking about "yesterday" in the posting.

I had the Comparative class yesterday morning. A major development: a Greek student came. As I've previously mentioned, the class has been just three students from other countries. In the 4th week of the class, we were finally joined by a Greek student. Stelios told me later that he had been the one to tell her to attend. She had sepnt a semester in Germany and approached him about the prospects of grad school in either the UK or US. He told her she ought to be in my class.

After class Stelios asked me if I would be willing to copyedit the revised book introduction and chapter outline, which I agreed to do. I also met a professor in the department who teaches conflict resolution and group psychology. The "department" probably might be better characterized a college because it is made up of three separate units, but together there are only about 26 full time faculty. Students get a liberal arts education but most of it comes from the department. Firts semester courses in the "department" are: Social Theory; Modern Greek, Language and Literature; Intro to Comm Theory; Intro to New Technologies; Contemporary European History, and; Intro to the Psychology of Communication.

I got back to the apartment in the early afternoon. The three of them hadn't been out and pretty much decided to spend the day inside. It was a good choice for the evening as we got a spring storm, complete with lightning and thunder.

Since they were unable to get onto the 4-day cruise, they can be more leisurely about doing things. They have a good attitude about traveling. When their kids were little, they always programmed in a "rest day" every third day or so. They never got back from vacation needing a vacation. Sounds pretty sensible to me, but I know I always feel like I should be moving.

They are also exceedingly attentive to each other's needs. They will tease each other and insult each other all the time, but when they're not in the room together, Jim is always talking about what Sharon would like and Sharon is always saying how Jim needs this or that. I know they'll read this blog, and if they're in the same room when they read it they'll probably make some joke about it. Jim's whole reason for coming to Greece was because Sharon wanted to, and Sharon will forego doing things when she thinks Jim has had enough.

In case it isn't obvious, I'm still uploading pictures from Nicole's visit.

In terms of a news story, I wanted to provide something out of China. There was a story in the International Herald Tribune about the Bird's Nest and how it is being used after the Olympics. I find it interesting because here in Athens it seems there are so many venues being under-utilized. That's just the observation of a non-professional, but I can't help but believe many of these structures that got built to host thousands of international guests, just 5 years later, are looking pretty run down.

Another brief posting with Nicole's pictures. Today Kim and I took Sharon downtown so she could see a few more sites: the agora (open-air market), changing of the guard and of course we had to get some street food as we walked.

I had office hours today (just like the US - no students came in) followed by the documentary class. Once again, I started with 10, finished with 8. Maybe we should stop taking a break :)

When I got back from class, Jim and I tried to find "The Blue Parrot," which the paper said was having a St. Patrick's Day celebration (Greeks don't celebrate St. Pat's) complete with a bar quiz. We took the tram to the town where the bar is located but didn't find it. I didn't map it in advance - my bad. Oh well. Jim and I rode the tram back, picked up dessert and had that with Kim and Sharon instead (no green beer, though).

Today's pictures are still from Nicole's Delphi collection. I'm getting tired of taking pictures.

I took Jim and Sharon downtown for a couple of hours. As soon as we got off the tram, Jim made a bee-line for McDonald's. Sharon and I watched him eat (we were going to get souvlaki). After our walk and seeing a few sights (Sharon remarked she only took 30 pictures - not enough) we got back on the tram and headed back to the apartment. Sharon, Kim and I then went for a beach walk, and she was able to take another 30 or so pictures. Tonight Kim made dinner. Jim is still struggling with the effects of jet lag, I think: he was in bed tonight by 9 p.m.

News for today: Couner-terrorism experts from Scotland Yard are in Athens to help Greece deal with its terrorism issues.

ALSO: I just read in today's paper that Tim Berners-Lee, the inventor of the Internet, will be speaking at a conference here in Athens this Wednesday. I'd love to go, but 45 Euros just to hear him speak would really make me a geek.